Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Every week I cook a Middle Eastern recipe, this week I made Lahmacun flatbreads that are eaten throughout the Turkey and the Levant

What is Lahmacun

Flatbreads exist in all Middle Eastern cuisines from Moroccan Msemen to Iranian taftoon, every country has their unique flat breads, but one that is shared widely across borders is Lahmacun. Pronounced Lah-ma-june, these meat topped flatbreads are a quintessential staple in Turkey, the Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Palestine) and Armenia. Apart from Lahmacun there are many other types of topped flatbreads such as Manakish, Pide and Moajanat which are sometimes topped with Cheese, Zaatar or spinach. The name Lahmacun applies to flat breads topped with a mixture of Lamb, Peppers, Onion and Tomatoes. The vegetables and meat are minced really finely and thoroughly mixed to create a smooth topping that is spread over the dough. This turkish recipe includes Red Pepper Paste and Pul Biber (Aleppo Chilli) which results in a delicious Smokey and Umami flavour not far from that of smoked Paprika. The flatbreads are usually baked very thin in a wood oven, then served with fresh Parsley, Onions and Lemon. The result is a suprisingly light and refreshing bread that could work as an snack, or main dish.

Here's how mine turned out

This dish is sometimes refered to as Turkish Pizza, though they share very few characteristics other than both being flat and both containing tomatoes. In the Levant Lahmacun is called Lahm B'Ajeen and in Armenia it's commonly called Lamadjo

Flavor Profile

The main flavours in this are the Lamb, Red Pepper paste, Fresh Vegetables and Aleppo Chilli. The Lahmacun on their own have a meaty flavour that is elevated by the fresh vegetables and parsley, when freshly baked they have the additional delightful flavour of freshly baked pitta bread. Once topped with Onions, Parsley and a squeeze of Lemon then wrapped the lahmacun are instantly elevated with a fresh herbyness and kick of zest. I make the onions with Sumac which adds another layer of citrussy flavour to the Lahmacun wraps.

History

Although this recipe is Turkish, the origin of Lahmacun is not well known, luckily a clue lies in the name. Lahmacun, is thought to come from the words Lahm Ajeen which means Meat Dough in Arabic. In fact the version of Lahmacun eaten throughout the levant is called Lahm B'Ajeen (Meat with Dough) and despite the recipes being a little different you would be forgiven for thinking they were the same if placed side by side. Indeed a single line recipe for Lahm B'Ajeen is written in "Scents and Flavours" a 13th Century Cook book from Aleppo in Modern Day Syria. In the 1960s the dish gained popularity in Turkey and spread all over the country. Now you can find it served in nearly all Turkish Restaurants throughout the world as an appetizer or snack.

Ingredients:

For 8 25cm (10in) Lahmacun

Dough:

500G (1lb) All Purpose Flour
375 ml (12.6 fl oz) Whole Milk Room Temperature
6 Tbsp Vegetable Oil
1.5 Tsp Instant Yeast
1.5 Tsp Salt

Meat topping:

2 Plum Tomatoes
1/2 Brown Onion
1/2 Green Pepper
1/2 Red Pepper
1 Green Chilli
3 Cloves of Garlic
Bunch of Parsley
75g (3.2 oz) Red Pepper Paste
50g (1/6 oz)Tomato Paste
1 Tbsp Pul Biber or Allepo Chilli
1 Tsp salt
30ml (1 fl oz) Vegetable oil

To garnish:

Large bunch of Parsley
1 Red Onion
1/2 Tsp Salt
1 Tsp Sumac
2-4 Lemons
Any salad vegetables you like

Directions:

To make the Dough:

Pour your milk into a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment
Add the instant yeast and mix briefly to combine
Add the AP flour and salt then mix to combine until a dough ball forms
When all the milk is absorbed into the dough turn the mixer speed to high and knead for 5-8 minutes until the dough pulls away from the walls of the mixer bowl and has a tacky texture (sticks and leaves a little residue but is springy)
Add 1 tbsp of the oil to your dough at a time and work it in, this is easiest done by hand. Once absorbed repeat until all the oil is used
Grease a bowl with some vegetable oil and pour out the dough into it
Let it rest for 30-60 minutes until doubled in size

To make the Topping:

Roughly chop and prepare the following; 1/2 a brown onion, 1/2 a green pepper, 1/2 a red pepper, 2 plum tomatoes, 1 green chilli and 3 cloves of garlic
Add them all to a food processor or blender and then add in a bunch of parsley as well as 1 Tsp salt, 30ml vegetable oil, 1 tbsp Pul Biber, 50g Tomato Paste and 75g Red Pepper Paste
Process until a fine paste forms, taste for seasoning and ensure it is over salted
Add your meat to the food processor and Process till well combined with the vegetables

To make the Cured Sumac Onion garnish:

Thinly slice a whole red onion and place in a bowl
Add 1/2 a teaspoon of salt and mix well to work into the onions
Add 1 teaspoon of sumac and mix to combine
Set aside for 15-30 minutes so the onions can cure

To Cook:

Pour your dough out onto a well flowered work surface and divide into 8 equal sized pieces
Roll a piece of dough out as thin as you can get it, you should use a non stick pan this size (make sure it has metal handles)
Place your dough onto a non stick surface and then add a few tablespoons of the topping
Spread the topping out into a thin even layer, spread it all the way to the edges
When ready to cook, heat your non stick pan on medium high heat and preheat the grill on your oven
Fold your lahmacun in half and transfer it into the pan, unfold the lahmacun in the Pan and re-distribute any topping which has moved
Let it cook for 2-3 minutes until the underside is just starting to brown and the topping starts to bubble slightly
Place the pan under your grill for 3-4 minutes until the topping is dry and well browned
Remove the pan and place back on the stove until the underside of the Lahmacun is evenly browned
When cooked, stack the lahmacun one on top of the other on a plate. This will help them remoisturise and will soften the dough

To serve:

Place a lahmacun on a plate and top with a handful of fresh parsley
Add some of the Cured Sumac Onions
Squeeze on the juice of 1/4 - 1/2 a lemon
Roll up the Lahmacun into a wrap and enjoy

Notes:

  • Yes I know Turkey is not always considered part of the Geographic Middle East, but culinary it can be considered such. This is because the former Ottoman empire which controlled the Middle East for centuries spread cuisine throughout the region.
  • Lahmacun is usually served very very thin. I've seen it served at restaurants the thickness of spring roll wrappers but I was unable to work it this thin. If you can I recommend doing it and cooking for less time. I have also seen them served slightly thicker the same way I made them, but the majority are thin.
  • If you have a pizza oven or a pizza stone then you should try baking one in the oven straight away, it will cook fully in just a couple of minutes I think.


bon appetit

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